We took a peek at the forgotten Nutjak fortress, which hides a view worth millions of euros above the Cetina River

If you ever find yourself in the Dalmatian hinterland, in a region where the sea is not yet visible but can already be felt in the air, don’t miss the chance to turn off toward a place that doesn’t appear in bold letters in the guidebooks. If you’re driving from Split toward Trilj, past the Bisko toll station and along state road D60, you won’t spot this fortress from either side. It’s neither marked nor easily visible, hiding instead on the edge of a cliff above the Cetina River.

To reach it, you have to turn off the main road onto a gravel path, about one and a half kilometers before the Trilj viewpoint. This road leads toward the canyon, and after five minutes of easy driving, you’ll arrive at the point where you continue on foot, following narrow trails toward the remains of the Nutjak fortress.

Nutjak, Cetina River, Photo: Adria.fun 

And once you finally approach it, the outlines of its walls begin to appear. The stonework rises out of the rock almost imperceptibly, as if it weren’t built by human hands but shaped by nature itself. The approach is from the northern side, and the reward is a view that opens up from the top, overlooking the Cetina and the entire surrounding area. The river winds far below the fortress, cutting through a narrow canyon that from above looks almost unreal.

If you didn’t know, Nutjak was built in the mid-15th century, at a time when Ottoman armies were crossing rivers and mountains, steadily pressing the western borders of what was then Croatian territory. The fortress was commissioned by Duke Žarko Dražojević, a local nobleman who understood the importance of controlling the river crossing. He didn’t build a monumental structure, but rather a firm point of resistance, a lookout and defensive post from which movements could be monitored and countered.

Nutjak, Trilj, Photo: Adria.fun  

The fortress isn’t large. The walls are simple, adapted to the natural shape of the cliff, and the interior space is only enough for a small garrison. On the edge stood a watchtower, offering a view over the valley and river. From the lowest part of the fortress, you can still see the area where the soldiers’ quarters and storerooms were once located. Water was likely brought from nearby springs or collected in cisterns. Everything was functional, modest, and designed with defense in mind.

Although Nutjak was never the site of major battles, its role was crucial. It was an early line of defense and a signal point. In local oral tradition, it remained remembered as the fortress where “the unfortunate ones” were sent, soldiers with no choice, who stayed there alone and exposed. It’s not hard to imagine the weight of that task when you stand on the stone walls, looking across the landscape for miles. To be here meant to be the first to face danger, but also the first to raise the alarm.

When the Ottoman Empire was pushed further inland and the borders moved eastward, Nutjak lost its military purpose. By the end of the 17th century, it became redundant and was abandoned. It was never demolished or repurposed, but it simply remained where it was. Wind, sun, and time took their toll, but the shape of the fortress is still clearly recognizable. The walls, the corner tower, and the layout within the perimeter are still visible if you know where to look.

Nutjak, Trilj, Photo: Adria.fun

You won’t find information boards or groomed trails here, but that raw simplicity is what gives the place its authenticity. Nutjak isn’t a museum piece, but a genuine historical site that you can experience without filters. It’s also a fantastic location for photographers, as the view from the fortress rim captures the river, cliffs, and valley in a single unforgettable frame.

For those drawn to history or to places that speak without words, this fortress offers more than it seems at first glance. Every view down the Cetina follows the same route once taken by armies, merchants, and guards. And precisely because it is not widely known, the place gives you the feeling of a personal discovery.

Nutjak is truly more than a ruin. It’s a reason to leave the main road and explore a forgotten, yet important, corner of Dalmatia. It convinced us the moment we saw it.