Stone towns of Hvar (4) – Venetian fortress in Sućuraj

I continue the tour of the stone towns of the island of Hvar, and after the Fortica in Hvar, the Fortress of Petar Hektorović in Stari Grad, and the Church – Fortress of St. Mary of Mercy in Vrboska, I set off on my way to Sućuraj. My goal was to visit the Venetian fortress there.

Sućuraj, the island of Hvar, Photo: Adria fun

Sućuraj is located on the eastern part of the island, the one closest to the mainland, more than 70 kilometers from the town of Hvar. The road to it is very picturesque because the winding road offers a beautiful view of Korčula, Pelješac, and Biokovo, so the journey went quickly.

The first written mentions of Sućuraj, which are still preserved today, date only from the 14th century, although the ancient Sućuraj is mentioned in Homer’s Iliad, in which Sućuraj is called Kila in the east of Leka (Hvar), where, according to Greek mythology, Agamemnon, the Achaean king in Mycenae “cast a curse on the opponent”...

Over the centuries, Sućuraj was settled and shaped by Illyrians, Romans, Venetians, French, and Croats, and it experienced its golden age in the 17th century. This particular Venetian fort which dates from that time was built to defend against attackers.

To my astonishment, I found a parking space in the very center of the town on the waterfront, right next to the boat of a tourist who, at that very moment, was preparing fish on his boat, whose intoxicating smell spread throughout the bay.

Sućuraj, the island of Hvar, Photo: Adria fun

From the parking lot to the Fortica, as the local toponym for this Venetian fort built in 1613 reads, is only about a hundred meters of light walking. My first impression was that there was not much left of the fort itself, and my view of it was spoiled by cars parked around it and private houses.

Sućuraj fortress, Photo: Adria fun

During the Venetian-Turkish wars, Sućuraj was located on the triple border of three states: the Republic of Venice (which included the island of Hvar at the time), the Ottoman Empire (the Makarska coast), and the Republic of Dubrovnik (Pelješac peninsula).

This Venetian fortress was built on the orders of Captain Antonio Civran. It is also known why. After the Turks burned and looted Sućuraj three times, it was needed to protect the place and waterways.

Sućuraj fortress, Photo: Adria fun

Today the fortress is neglected and the inside is overgrown with weeds, but from historical sources, I have learned that on the southern side towards the coast there used to be loopholes and larger openings for cannons. In the middle of the southern rampart, there is a partially preserved rectangular tower where a wooden door was subsequently installed, and the original entrance was located on the northern rampart, on which a tall three-story tower was built, but it does not exist today.

Sućuraj fortress, Photo: Adria fun

Old records say that during the 17th century, Sućuraj received numerous refugees who fled from the mainland to the islands, so the construction of this fort made sense. This was particularly significant in the conflicts between Venice and the Turkish Empire during the Candian War (1645-1669), as Ottoman incursions were increasingly frequent but unsuccessful.

Sućuraj fortress, Photo: Adria fun

The fort experienced the greatest devastation in the Second World War, in the Anglo-American bombing of Sućuraj in March 1944, when the tower, the entire interior, and a good part of the defensive walls were destroyed.

Sućuraj fortress, Photo: Adria fun

Today, the fort is registered in the Register of Cultural Properties of the Republic of Croatia, but nothing is being done to restore it and it has been left to the test of time. 🙁

A little sad because of that, I leave this place full of historical events towards another ancient destination near Jelsa. But about that in the next article.

This publication was co-financed by the Fund for the Promotion of Pluralism and Diversity of Electronic Media.