Stone towns of Hvar (2): Peter Hektorović’s fortress – symbol of Stari Grad

For someone who truly enjoys historical and cultural legacies, visiting each fortress or castle is like going back in time. Somehow, it’s as if they hide the spirit of the past that you meet anew every time, it just has a new name, comes from a different time, or hides in its embrace something that others don’t have.

That was the case on this hot summer day when, together with the rest of the portal team, after visiting the Hvar Fortress – Fortica, we headed towards the Stari Grad, where the unique and peculiar castle of the poet Petar Hektorović, also known as Tvrdalj, awaited us.

Petar Hektorović’s fortress, Photo: Adria.fun

Petar Hektorović was a Croatian Renaissance poet originally from Stari Grad on Hvar born in 1487. Educated, he created works in Latin and Italian from a young age and is best known for his work Fishing and Fisherman’s Talk, in which he mentions how his summer house won him over.

And why Tvrdalj? Well, once upon a time, when this castle – summer house – was built, the place was called just like that. Inheriting it from his father after his death, in 1539 Petar Hektorović decided, according to his new plans, to turn this beautiful villa built on former ancient ruins into a castle that would serve both him and his friends as well as passers-by.

You won’t believe it, but what you will see through this article was built for 40 years. Yes, for so many years Hektorović worked together with local craftsmen on this wonderful rustic manor, but unfortunately, he never managed to finish it in his lifetime…

Petar Hektorović, Photo: Adria.fun

As soon as you arrive in the Stari Grad, you will feel its uniqueness. This wonderful place smells different, maybe because it is not a place where very young people go because it doesn’t have that club vibe, but it truly provides an insight into how life used to be here. I knew roughly the exact location of the castle, but since I wanted to fully experience this old town, as its name suggests, I decided that the narrow stone streets would lead me right to it.

Stari Grad – Hvar, Photo: Adria.fun

There’s nothing I like more than getting lost in a place where you really have something to see, so the hour-long walk around Tvrdalj passed as if it were only five minutes. In the blink of an eye, the figure of Petar Hektorović appeared in front of me, and under it was written “To my Tvrdalj who adopts me”, that will also be a sign for you that you are in the right place.

Although from the front you can’t recognize that it’s a castle, but an old Dalmatian residential building, know that if you skip it, you’ll be fooled because behind this camouflage is a real little paradise.

Petar Hektorović’s fortress, Photo: Adria.fun

Before the very entrance, while you observe it carefully, you will find the first of nine hidden messages carved in stone by the poet himself, which reads “Omnium Conditori”, which in translation means “Creator of everything”, and in front of Tvrdalj itself, there is a so-called well. Remember it because we’ll need it a little later.

There is an entrance fee, so you will see many who will immediately turn back after learning this, not knowing what they will miss for those 4 euros.

Well, Petar Hektorović’s fortress, Photo: Adria.fun

In the atrium, before entering the magical garden where there is also a pond, you will be greeted by a toilet. Yes, one of the rare examples in Europe from that time, above which follows the following wise message, which apparently many people pondered in themselves, and it reads “Si te nosti cur suprbis” which in translation would mean “If you know yourself why are you proud?”

There is another statue of the poet Petar Hektorović, and a friendly gentleman who will briefly guide you where and how to find the other inscriptions.

Petar Hektorović’s fortress, Photo: Adria.fun

Right after that, there is that magical pond, which is decorated with beautiful arches, a porch, and a tower with stone nests for birds. It is this lake that brings us back to the well from one of the previous fragments. You see, fish live in it today because as the poet himself said, his greatest desire was to create a microcosm, i.e. a closed world or space for the life of all God’s creatures – fish, birds, plants, and people.

This beautiful pond is filled with two streams, the freshwater one that descends from the local hills and the salty one, or rather a well that brings seawater into the pond.

Petar Hektorović’s fortress, Photo: Adria.fun

While you are looking around it and creating memories in the form of photos next to it, stop and take a good look at all sides of the world. Walking around you will notice as many as six inscriptions, four around the pond, one on the wall, more precisely the stone slab of the table that is now built under the arcade of the pond, and one above the entrance door. On the front door is written “Petrus Hectoreus, Marini filius proprio sumptu et industria ad suum et amnicorum usum construxit“ which translates to “Petar Hektorović, son of Marin, built at his own expense for use by himself and his friends”.

Petar Hektorović’s fortress, Photo: Adria.fun

On the south side of the pond is written “Respice quod salvant nec opes nec gloria mundi non decor aut aetas mors quia cuncta rapit“ – “Know that neither wealth nor worldly fame nor beauty or age saves because death takes everything”. In the east, you will find “Nihil occultum“ – “Nothing is hidden”, in the west “Connventibus vertute et genio f – “Built by the cooperation of virtue and ability”, and in the north “Memorare novissima“ – “Remember the last things.”

On the slab of the stone table, as you go around the pond on its right side that leads you to the Ethnographic Collection, it says “Fede e realta o quanto e Bella” which in translation means “Oh, how beautiful faith and reality are!”

Petar Hektorović’s fortress, Photo: Adria.fun

Although it is not an original part of Tvrdalj, the castle also houses an ethnographic collection where, as you walk towards the park, you can see the original preserved items of typical Dalmatian cuisine and taverns on the island of Hvar. It is a real opportunity to get acquainted with a part of the time in which the poet himself lived.

And at the very end, a real garden oasis awaits you, where plants were planted that were sent to the poet by his friends, but we will allow for you to experience yourself!

Do not forget! You will find the last inscription, which is located on the western part of the building, next to today's post office.

Petar Hektorović’s fortress, Photo: Adria.fun

This publication was co-financed by the Fund for the Promotion of Pluralism and Diversity of Electronic Media.