The view from Kozjak reaches all the way to Lastovo! The church of St. George is also hidden there!

Imagine standing on a rocky ridge, high above the everyday noise, where the wind never stops and the view knows no bounds. Below you stretch Kaštela, Split, Trogir, the rippling sea, and the Adriatic islands in all their splendour, while behind you, the mountain air whispers through the hinterland. If you’ve ever wanted to see Dalmatia from a bird’s-eye view without a drone, this is the place.

On that border between sea and continent, between sky and stone, rises Kozjak, a mountain that carries thousands of stories and hides a spiritual gem: the Church of St. George.

Kozjak, Photo: Adria.fun

Kozjak, or as old records sometimes call it, Mali Kozjak, is neither the highest nor the most famous mountain in Dalmatia. But its position, stretched lengthwise above the coastal plain, makes it unique. It runs from east to west like a stone spine between the Cetina region and the Bay of Kaštela. Within its rugged terrain lie shepherds’ paths, ancient fortifications, and remnants of watchtowers from a time when the Venetian and Ottoman borders constantly shifted between peace and conflict.

We decided to check things out ourselves and drive up, this time by car, to one of Kozjak’s peaks, the one with the Church of St. George, sitting at about 676 meters above sea level.

From the centre of Split to the top, it took us more than 50 minutes, mostly because of confusing GPS directions. “You’re not the only one, people often get lost up here,“ said a kind gentleman whose house a popular navigation app accidentally guided us to. He pointed us in the direction of the right turn.

Kozjak, Photo: Adria.fun

And finally, after a tiring ascent, we arrive at St. George. We park the car, and suddenly there it is: endless blue and a small medieval church that has welcomed hikers and believers for generations. Although the exact date of its construction is lost in the mists of history, it is believed to have been named, like many churches on mountain peaks throughout Dalmatia, after Saint George, the patron of chivalry, courage, and divine justice.

It is five meters long and only 2.9 meters wide, and in front of it stands a fenced courtyard where there once was a cemetery with medieval tombstones known as stećci. After restoration work following World War II, the cemetery was relocated. Only a few visibly damaged tombstones remain, now partially covered by wild vegetation.

According to tradition, Mass is held here twice a year: once on Pentecost Monday and once on the feast day of St. George.

In addition to the church, there are also transmitters for television and radio signals, as well as mobile network base stations that cover a wide area, from Split and Kaštela to the islands and the Dalmatian hinterland. But perhaps most important of all are the round stone tables, perfect for a break or an unforgettable picnic with the best view in the region.

Kozjak, Photo: Adria.fun

No need for drama up there, all you really need is a good jacket and a bit of time. There are no shops, no cafés, no one trying to sell you anything. Just a view that’s worth more than anything and silence. And honestly, that’s more than enough.

If your journey takes you to Split, be sure to explore it too.