A trip to Biševo? The Blue Cave, a sandy beach and the best tuna steak await you

If you have been reading my texts about the island of Vis and its archipelago, you know that I have been spending summers with my family on this island for years. And no matter how well I know it, every time I discover it again, I love exploring it even more. The same goes for the island of Bisevo, its closest island friend. Today, I will tell you what a trip to Biševo looks like, in case you ever decide to visit it yourself.

I must mention that this is not an advertisement; however, I chose to go on an excursion with Mr. Pjerino’s agency once again. So far, I have not had a better experience with anyone else. This time, however, we were led by his son, and it was just as great.

Komuna – Komiža, Photo: Adria.fun

WHY VISIT BISEVO AT ALL?

Biševo is a small, rocky island south of Vis, with barely twenty permanent residents today. And although the numbers do not sound impressive, what Biševo offers is silence, nature that still has not given up on itself, and a feeling that you are truly far from everything. It is special because of its Blue Cave, about which pages and pages of travel stories have been written, but also because of the vineyards that cling to the poor soil, the solitude where even the wind knows your name, and the sea that here has a deeper shade of blue.

In the bay of Porat, there is a sandy beach that even the most devoted lovers of rocky shores will find hard to resist, perfect for swimming and relaxing. And if you climb up to the village of Biševo, at the top of the island, you will also find the Blue Cave Visitor Centre, which used to be the island’s primary school.

And for those who seek quieter adventures, there is also Medvidina Cave – Monk Seal Cave. Once a shelter for the Mediterranean monk seal, today it is a spot for those who know how to listen to the whisper of rocks.

Island of Vis, view from Biševo, Photo: Adria.fun

WHAT DOES A HALF-DAY TRIP TO BIŠEVO LOOK LIKE?

Now that you have a rough reason to visit, here is how it looked for us.

The excursion boat was waiting for us at the Komiža harbour around eleven o’clock. Honestly, I would have preferred if we had started a bit earlier, but it did not really matter. Once we were all on board, the young captain took us through some of Komiža’s most beautiful coves, such as Kamenice, Pizdica, and a few other hidden gems. Along the way, he introduced the new passengers to the basics of local history and the stories that make Komiža special.

There were also stories about stone fortifications such as the Church of Saint Nicholas, Our Lady of the Pirates – Gusarica, and the Komuna fortress, as well as some personal anecdotes from the Zanki family and the beginnings of their agency. All told in a warm, unpretentious way, as if a friend were showing you around their neighbourhood.

Church of St. Mary – Our Lady of the Pirates, Photo: Adria.fun

After that, the first stop was the Blue Cave, the most famous and one of only three such natural phenomena on the Adriatic. Few people have not heard of it, as it is advertised everywhere due to its natural formation. Up to two thousand people visit it daily, and the queues form from the early morning hours. Still, if you go with an organised excursion boat, the chances of getting in right away are much higher since these tours are already scheduled in advance. The ticket costs 24 euros per person.

So, hop off the boat onto the deck, then hop again into another smaller boat with an official guide who will take you through everything you need to know and see.

For me and my family members, except for my son-in-law, this was not the first time we had visited. I remember when we used to be able to swim and explore what it looked like from the inside. Of course, that is no longer allowed today, and each boat waits its turn so that accidents do not happen.

After that sweet visit and another moment of admiring the beauty that was given to us by the grace of nature, we returned to marina, where we waited for the rest of our boat group to return from their tour. About ten people can fit into one small boat, so the entrance to the cave happens in turns, in small groups. Once everyone returned, we got back on our main boat and headed out for a further adventure around the island, all the way to the bay with the beautiful sandy beach in Porat.

Naturally, what followed was a round of swimming, a round of sunbathing, and time for a well-deserved lunch.

Porat, Biševo, Photo: Adria.fun

I will have to write a separate article about that lunch, more precisely about the restaurant located right by the beach in Porat. I have a review that will make your mouth water. All I can say for now is this – you won’t find a better tuna steak and green bean salad anywhere. As they say, a gem protects itself. And this restaurant knows its worth and calmly waits for those who know how to recognise the real thing. Far from everyone…

After a delicious lunch and another round of swimming, it was time to continue exploring the island. We sailed into various small caves, some official and marked, others just crevices known only to locals. We discovered where Komiža fishermen find their catch, where squid are caught in winter, how Eleonora’s falcon hides in holes in the cliffs, and also why Monk Seal Cave is called that.

If by any chance you do not know, I must tell you the story is not a happy one. It is a tale of survival that the Mediterranean monk seal did not understand, and neither did the fishermen, who did not know any other way. Unfortunately, it ended tragically, and to this day, no new one has entered it.

The cave itself is also interesting and is about one hundred and fifteen meters long. It is clear why that seal chose it as her home.

Along the way, we also heard an interesting bit of local trivia, like the fact that the island has more cars than residents, and that most of them are not even registered.  

Biševo, Photo: Adria.fun

And so the time came to return to Komiža. The sun was already slowly setting, the sea was becoming calmer, and our faces were tired and happy. On the way back, each of us carried a little experience more, a new memory, maybe the scent of pine, maybe the taste of salt… but Bisevo once again proved that it is not just an island, but a feeling. And the moment we stepped back onto the Komiza waterfront, we knew we would return again one day. Because some places simply know how to slip under your skin.

We visited the island of Brusnik! This is worth experiencing at least once in your life!