Stone towns of Vis (3): Fort Kastel Komuna
After we explored Fort George and the Perasti tower in Vis, I headed to Komiža, ten kilometers away, located on the western side of the island of Vis in the deep Komiža bay.
Komiža is separated from the rest of the island by the high mountain massif Hum (587 meters), which descends steeply to the bay’s shores. Such accommodation, and the associated lack of agricultural land, determined the orientation of Komiža towards the sea and fishing.
For centuries, the Dalmatian islands were afraid of pirate attacks, but the most threatened of all was the island of Vis, and especially Komiža, facing the open sea, which developed a fishing industry in the 16th century and exported large quantities of salted fish to Venice.
As I walk around the fortress of Komuna (Kaštel), which is located on today’s waterfront, I imagine past times and pirates who robbed poor Komiža fishermen and their barrels full of salted fish and then sold them as slaves to row on galleys. At least that’s what the historical sources I read while preparing to tour this historical gem say.
Ultimately, the fishermen were fed up and decided to do something…
The fortress itself was built in 1585, and the inscription above the lintel of the entrance to the fortress confirms that it was so. I read …“Opvs cvra Ioanis Grimani comitis et provissoris svb Anno domini MDLXXXV”. In translation, it was built in 1585 thanks to the governor of the Venetia Ionis (Ivan) Grimani.
That Grimani was the prince of Hvar and a big miser, after all, like the entire Venetian government, so he was not inclined to finance the construction of this castle from the state budget, but it was mostly built by fishermen with their contribution from the catch of sardines in Trešenjevac bay on the southern coast of the island of Biševo.
It is also important to tell how the fort got the name Komuna. Namely, in 1879, Komiža municipality bought the fort and located its offices in it, which is why the fort got its name. At the same time, windows and balconies were made on the fortress, and a final part with a clock was added to the bell tower. It is also important to note that at the beginning of the 19th century, the English kept a small military garrison in the fortress.
The fort is really impressive, so I wanted to enter it because it also houses the Fisherman’s Museum with permanent exhibits, and I was also interested in the view of the city from the upper terrace. “The ticket price is five euros,” says the young ticket clerk at the entrance, which I readily take out of my wallet and a few moments later climb the narrow stairs to the first floor.
In the museum there is a very interesting collection of various fishing objects, but also the last fishing boat from Komiža, the famous Falkuša, taken out of the sea after a shipwreck in 1986 in Porat Bay on Biševo.
After viewing the exhibition, I climbed to the very roof of the Komuna, and with a beautiful view of the whole of Komiža, the sea, and Biševo, I marveled at the precision of the sundial that was on the nearby wall.
Another interesting thing is related to the Komuna. Namely, during its construction, it was partially in the sea on the northern and western sides, while today it is twenty meters away from the sea along a wide waterfront. For this reason, during the construction of Komuna, solid stone rings were made for tying ships. Very interesting.
Delighted by the tour of the Komuna, I was looking forward to further exploration of this island full of historical buildings and cultural heritage.
This publication was co-financed by the Fund for the Promotion of Pluralism and Diversity of Electronic Media.
Leave a Reply