Stone towns of Vis (1): Fort George is the most prominent fort in southern Dalmatia
After the stone towns of the island of Hvar, it’s time to jump to the nearby island of Vis and continue. At the same time, we start an adventure in which we explore the historical legacy from the Middle Ages and at a time when Vis was under the control of the British Royal Navy.
The first fort is the best-known and best-preserved of all, known under the name Fort George, which is located at the very gates of this beautiful island paradise, more precisely above the port of Vis and next to the islet of Host.
It is extremely easy to get to, so it only took me 5 minutes from the center of Vis by car on the road that first leads along the coast, past Prirovo and the church of St. Jerome, and all through the thick pine forest of the Apolonija Zanella promenade.
I have stayed on the island of Vis since I was a child, but as a child I remember it as an island where I could endlessly look at the stars, even in the cinema, eat ice cream on the waterfront, and run around the playgrounds with other children. I don’t remember Fort George, although my parents say that we visited it several times, so I used this opportunity to recover those lost moments and get to know the island that I love so much.
There is also a huge parking lot waiting for you at the fort, so if you arrive on hot summer days, know that there is plenty of space in the shade as well. King George III Fortress, or as everyone affectionately calls it, Fortica, is an example of a historical building built in the 19th century.
Just before the construction of the fort, battles between the French and British navies took place over the entire Adriatic, so Napoleon’s army even attacked the island of Vis twice in 1810 and 1811.
Seeing that after the victory they needed to strengthen and better secure the entrance to the island itself, Colonel George Duncan Robertson in 1812 received the order to build Fort George, which was named after the then-British King George III.
Fort George is 105 meters long and 32 meters wide and is surrounded by a moat 2 meters deep. The 8-meter-high walls and the wooden drawbridge, which has a British flag and two flowers above the entrance, protected two courtyards, barracks and officers’ quarters, powder rooms, warehouses, and cisterns.
The British very quickly left Vis, which had been under the control of Austria since 1815. The new government continues to fortify the island. This proved to be justified when the young Italian kingdom tried to occupy Vis. In 1866, a large, modern Italian fleet under Admiral Persano attempted to capture the island. They were opposed by the smaller and outdated Austrian war fleet under Admiral Tegetthoff. Despite this, the Austrian fleet won a great victory. In that famous battle of Vis, Fortica was also destroyed, but it was later rebuilt.
After serving for military purposes for a long time, the fortress was then abandoned, and a comprehensive restoration project was started in 2012 by a private company that received a 25-year concession for the use of this valuable building.
Already at the entrance, I was impressed by the arrangement of the building. Everything was perfect. Immediately from the entrance, in the first courtyard, there were flowers and royal two-seater patio chairs, making the atmosphere as if you found yourself in a court.
Just before entering the second part of the courtyard, which today is decorated with a restaurant and an open-air cafe, on the right there is a door and stairs that lead you to the hidden decorated rooms where the officers used to stay.
In addition to exhibitions, which are held here from time to time, you can also look at some of the legacies that were used during the presence of the British Royal Navy, such as this officer’s suit or armchairs, chairs, and tables.
These rooms, as well as the rest of the fort, are used today for various celebrations such as weddings or holding private dinners and receptions. Everything is arranged in style, there is nothing bad to say about it, I thought to myself.
The staircase also leads to the very roof of the fort, from which you can see the island of Host and the port of Vis itself.
In the second courtyard, however, there is a magical atmosphere that amazed me. Among the tall pines, decorated with decorative lights and a beautiful sunset, I had to treat myself to a few cocktails.
I stayed there for a while, enjoying the view, and thinking about how we can be happy to live in at least somewhat peaceful times because it was here 213 years ago that the next attack was feared.
But, without much thought, I went to our second location, which you will read about in the next article.
This publication was co-financed by the Fund for the Promotion of Pluralism and Diversity of Electronic Media.
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