We visited the most interesting abandoned village in Croatia! Humac, although empty, still has a soul!

There is no more authentic way to get to know a new place or country than to head to the countryside. They say this is the best way to get to know the traditions, people, and life that used to be, and still is, going on today.

This is exactly why we headed to the island of Hvar this summer, as part of the Adria tour “Stone Towns”. Intending to experience everything that was made in stone truly, we found ourselves in one of the most interesting and, we believe, the most famous abandoned authentic Dalmatian villages – Humac.

Humac, Photo: Adria.fun

Surrounded by the smell of lavender, ruins, and old stone houses, Humac immediately took us back to the past, to a time when life was slower and simpler in these areas. It is in this village, where time has long since stopped, that there is still a spirit that carefully guards it.

Located at an altitude of 350 meters above sea level, this village was, according to some sources, founded in the 17th century, on an already existing settlement from the 13th century, as a seasonal shepherd’s settlement. The inhabitants who lived here came from Vrisnik, and they mainly engaged in cattle breeding and agriculture, especially viticulture and olive growing, using the fertile land and the Mediterranean climate for their survival.

The stone houses, of which there are approximately 140, were built without any binding material, and today they stand as silent guardians of the past, harmoniously integrated into the environment that surrounds them – dry stone walls and maquis.

Humac, Photo: Adria.fun

Humac can be reached from the direction of Jelsa or Poljica, depending on where you are staying during your vacation. The road that leads to the village climbs gently through the Mediterranean landscape and you will reach Humac itself in just 3-4 minutes of driving.

Upon arrival, two parking spaces await you – one is located right at the beginning, under the drywall, and the other is located in the very center, closer to the village. From there you can start your exploration of this historic and authentic place.

Humac, Photo: Adria.fun

Although we knew that the village was completely deserted, the silence you feel when you get out of the car simply overwhelms you. It’s as if all your senses are suddenly sharpened. The only thing passing through the village is the occasional sound of the wind and the sound of crickets, creating a feeling as if you are in another reality, far from the busy world.

As you get lost in its narrow streets, stone is all around you, but the experience is incomparable to anything you could experience before. Your mind begins to wander, reflecting images of your former life: you hear neighbors talking over the walls, and see people feeding their animals or carefully watering their gardens. It’s as if every crack in the stone, every path tells its own story about the life that used to be so alive here.

Humac, Photo: Adria.fun

At the end of the village, you hear some commotion and you think it’s all happening to you, but when it does, someone is there. The Franičević family will welcome you in their beautiful family restaurant, which is open only during the summer season. There, under the pines and on the stone tables, you can try various authentic dishes, but only in the evening and with prior notice.

Although we didn’t plan to dine here, we just wanted to have a drink and hide from the sun for a moment, Mr. Jakov convinced us that we must try the homemade pickled anchovies and some homemade cheese. We didn’t complain too much about that offer; after all, we are here, and the view that extends towards Makarska and the island of Brač deserves to stay a moment longer.

So, with the sounds of crickets and the smell of pines, we enjoyed the taste of local delicacies and absorbed the beauty of this unique place.

The restored church of St. John and Paul, dates from the beginning of the 20th century. This sacral building, although from a slightly later period than the village itself, with its simple stone facade fits harmoniously into the ambiance of Humac.

In addition to the church, in the village, you can also take a look at a small museum, where antique tools and objects that were once used by the inhabitants are exhibited. Each item on display tells a story about the way of life and work of the people who lived in these areas, from agriculture to cattle breeding.

Church of St. John and Paul, Humac, Photo: Adria.fun

In order for your trip to be fully fulfilled, we suggest that you go to Grapčeva cave together with the guide. The cave hides archaeological remains from the Neolithic, including ceramic vessels and tools that bear witness to the life of people in this area thousands of years ago, which makes it one of the most important prehistoric sites on the Adriatic.

For us, the walkthrough Humac was a unique experience, so I recommend that you, like us, go to this oasis of peace that tells some completely unusual stories.